Introduction

ACROSS AMERICA NORTH, 2006
Astoria, OR to Portsmouth, NH  50 DAYS/ 3650 MILES

Across America North is America by Bicycle’s northern route across the United States. This 50-day moderately paced tour averages 80+ miles per day and crosses through 10 states and just a bit of the Canadian province of Ontario. The 3650-mile route begins with a wheel dip in the Pacific Ocean in Astoria, Oregon and ends with a wheel dip in the Atlantic Ocean near Portsmouth, New Hampshire. In between, meet the challenge of the Cascades, the Rockies, and the Appalachian Mountains. Experience the vistas of the high deserts, the rolling high plains, and upper Midwestern farmlands. Across America North is 45 riding days that will treat you to stunning vistas, epic climbs, and return you to “reality” with a whole new appreciation of cycling.

[This blog is being created 10 years after the event described so that I may share it with family and friends . . . and read it in my old age. The photos on it a bit blurry as many of them were originally compressed for Mike Munk's website and then pulled from that website.

In 2004 I retired in May from Fire Protection Publications, a fire service publishing company on the campus of Oklahoma State University. The very next month I scrapped plans for cycling across Canada with the CCCTS, a group of retired Canadian cyclists, and began as staff for America by Bicycle, a bicycle touring company out of New Hampshire. How did this happen? Well, I had been told by my doctor that I needed hip replacement surgery and that there was no way I could cycle across Canada. (I did not get that surgery until July 2014, ten years later, BTW.) I was in a funk. Mike Munk read about my predicament in Wheel Issues, the Red Dirt Pedalers bike club newsletter I put together, and offered me a staff position with America by Bicycle, He successfully enticed me with the news that I could ride as little as I wanted if the hip acted up. He also wooed me with a note that read something like "Which would you prefer? Sleeping on the ground in a tent or sleeping in comfy a motel bed with a chocolate on your pillow?" 

Mike is a super photographer, mechanic, and ride leader and wanted to free himself of the nightly chore of keeping his ride website in which he showcased the riders and ride each day. My primary job was to keep this website, but I, like all the other support staff, drove the SAG van or luggage truck, set up SAG stops, and rode my bike either Float (free with and among the riders) or as Sweep behind the last rider. (This position might also be called border collie.)

The ride described here was my third year to staff America by Bicycle's Across America North ride, which starts in Astoria, OR, and finishes in Portsmouth, NH, 52 days and 3637 miles later. 

This year’s ride was a bit different for several reasons. First, because of my mother-in-law’s illness and subsequent death, I was unable to train properly for the ride and also needed to leave the ride in Fond du Lac, WI, a week short of its conclusion. Second, Mike & Barbara Munk, Karen Bauer, and Josh Stratton, my heretofore team, were staffing the Challenge or undergoing heart surgery this year, so with one exception, the staff on this ride was new to me and, more importantly, new to the route. Third, I developed a nasty viral cold that lasted nearly 10 days, and last, I was asked to keep the official ABB website, which is a pretty cut-and-dried, two or three paragraphs and two pix affair, not at all as much fun or as interesting to write (or read) as Mike Munk’s ride site. When comparing the two sites, one can see that I borrowed liberally from the text and some of the photos of the 2005 Across America North website, which in turn I borrowed liberally from the 2004 North website, both of which I had developed jointly with Mike.. 

Nonetheless, we had an interesting and diverse group of riders and the route, as always, was magnificently scenic and challenging. I was pleased to find an avid birder in the group, a college professor no less, and I also enjoyed all of the “kids” on the ride. We had a father and 13-year-old son duo and a mother riding a triple with her 13– and 15-year-olds. And, we also had a mix of nationalities, including two from Great Britain, one from Ireland, one from Scotland, one from Finland (years ago), two from Germany, and from Switzerland another delightful father with his 21-year old son. 

The mountains were not our biggest challenge this year. The HEAT was. But apart from heat-related problems, this was one of the safest rides I’ve staffed. Only one rider had to leave the ride because of a broken bone (collarbone). Ironically, the same rider left the ride on its very first day last year with his collarbone broken in six places. He has now vowed to complete the ride in 2007. Three’s a charm.]

Pre-ride organizing

Before each ride, the ride leaders spend three days driving the luggage truck and vans from New Hampshire to Astoria, Oregon. On arrival we sort the gear, assign duties, go out to lunch and sight see  a bit in Astoria. Our first day in Astoria was blustery as you can see from the pix below.

Tom and Christine sort tubes and tires for the mechanic's van

Jim sorts through the pumps and gear needed on the mechanic's van

Staff lunch on arrival in Astoria 

The Astoria Column

Christine, Tom, and Jim braving the wind at the Astoria Column

Tom, Michelle, me, Cristine blowing in the wind atop the hill on which stands the Astoria Column

Bridge over the mouth of the Columbia River

Mouth of the Columbia river where it empties into the Pacific Ocean

View to the west and the Columbia River and to the east from the Astoria Column

Astoria, OR—Opening Day!

Day 0—June 18, 2006—Astoria, OR—Opening Day!

Hello all of you family members, friends, and cross-country wannabes who will be following this exciting and challenging cross-country bicycle ride. My name is Susan Walker, and I will be posting brief summary accounts of each day’s adventure to this site. This will be my third summer staffing ABB’s Across America North ride, yet I am as eager and excited as I was on the first. Please bookmark this site and enjoy the ride with us!

“What happens,” you ask, “on Day 0 of a 50-day cross-country bicycle ride?” The short answer is “A lot!”

There are six of us staff members: Andy Hiroshima and Michelle Sahli, Co-ride Leaders; Jim Benson, Mechanic (Andy, too); and Tom Chappell, Christine Leininger, and me, Support Staff/SAG Drivers. On Day 0, we six staff coordinated with the hotel staff, helped riders assemble their shipped bikes, and conducted flat tire clinics. We registered 58 riders (the youngest 13 and the oldest 74 years old) from 16 states—including Hawaii—and from six countries: England, Wales, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and France.

Andy Hiroshima, Michelle Sali, chief ride leaders; Moi (Susan Walker) and roommate Christine Leininger, ride leaders; Jim Benson mechanic; Tom Chappell, ride leader

Andy and Jim assembling and checking out riders' bikes

Bicyclists arrived all day and began to get to know one another. Led by rider volunteers Bill Weidenfeller, Joyce Marino and Tim & Kathryn Tolford, those who had assembled their bicycles and had been checked off on helmet fit and bike inspection, tested their legs and bikes at noon by riding to the ocean at Fort Stevens Shipwreck Beach where they dipped their back wheels as tradition dictates. Riders also collected a bottle of Pacific Ocean water. On reaching the east coast, they will dip their front wheels into the Atlantic Ocean, and a designated rider will mix the Pacific water with the Atlantic water in a symbolic gesture.

Bill Weidenfeller, rider who lead a group to the Pacific's Shipwreck Beach  to dip wheels

Triple riders Lil and sons Chris, and  Ray dipping their wheel

Me, Christine, and Jim at the Wreck of the Peter Iredale after wheel dipping

In the evening, the staff conducted introduction and orientation sessions before they and the riders sat down together and shared a delicious banquet prepared by the hotel. After dinner, riders were given their Day 1 route sheets and Andy conducted Route Rap—a review of the route—an event that will take place each evening before the next day’s ride. Of course the first thing every rider turned to was the elevation view to see how much climbing was involved. Excitement and anxiety ran high. Every rider wondered how he or she would stack up against the abilities of the other riders and the demands of the challenging route ahead.

Tomorrow will tell. Join us again then and find out how anxiety turns to jubilation as we roll along the broad Columbia River on the first day of our journey east.

HEARD AT REGISTRATION TODAY: 

• “Can I exchange this large jersey for a medium? I have a large belly but a small body hiding behind it.” 
• “I’m a retired pilot and would like to see the world go by at 15 miles an hour rather than 500.” [Kent Hill on introducing himself and his reasons for joining the cross-country tour.]

Day 1--Astoria OR to St. Helens, OR

Day 1—June 19, 2006—Astoria OR to St. Helens, OR—69 miles—2650’ climb

SON OF A GUN! OUR RIDE’S BEGUN IN STATE NO. 1—BEAUTIFUL OREGON, HOME OF THE SALMON, MT ST. HELENS AND MT HOOD, WILD HORSES, AND ALL THINGS GOOD.

O, what a beautiful morning! Our first day of the 50 to follow dawned gorgeous: sunny, clear, temps in the mid 70s warming to the low 80s and a mild quartering wind that as the road twisted sometimes became a tailwind giving riders a boost over the hills on today’s route.

After breakfast, all 58 riders gathered behind the motel (which is nearly under the Astoria Bridge) for a group photo (see below), and then wheeled out of the motel parking lot and turned east to begin Day 1 of their cross-country adventure.

The directionally challenged had an easy first day on the road: Turn left out of the hotel parking lot and ride SH-30 all the way to St. Helens. (St. Helens is not the site of Mount St. Helens, which is northwest of St. Helens on the border with Washington.) Originally settled by New England loggers, the old town portion of St. Helens on the riverfront dates back nearly a century. Like the mountain, the town was named by Commander George Vancouver for British diplomat Alleyne Fitzherbert, whose title was Baron St. Helens.

View from Rt 30 to the river valley  below

SH-30 is a fairly busy road, its traffic at times included pungent smelling logging trucks and also large trucks of chipped wood for the paper mills, but the drivers of these rigs were very polite and generally gave us wide berth . . . even an occasional encouraging toot of the horn. SH-30 runs along the broad Columbia River, and in places we could look down on the beautiful river and to the green hills rising beyond it (see above) . . . and sometimes we could inhale the acrid odor of the paper mills counterbalanced by the piney odor of the lumber mills along it. Our first SAG stop was in Bradley Park high above the Columbia. Riders took photos of the scenic vista.

Flat-topped Mount St. Helens

As we neared our destination, Mount St. Helens popped into view, puffing smoke, her flat top capped with snow. It is hard to imagine the devastation that occurred when she blew her top in 1980. Her eruption marked the re-awakening of a relatively young (40,000-year-old) volcano that had been dormant since 1857. The northwest Indians told early explorers about the fiery Mount St. Helens. In fact, an Indian name for the mountain, Lou-wa-la-clough, means “smoking mountain.”

Everyone was in by 3, so had time to relax and get to know one another before enjoying a spaghetti and/or lasagna dinner at the Village Restaurant next door to the motel.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “I’m suing for false advertising. They didn’t show all these hills in the brochure.” 
• “Did you see that drive-thru cigarette kiosk near the SAG stop?” 
• Jim: “A miracle has happened. Everyone has signed in.”
  Rider: “Oh, I wasn’t supposed to sign all those?? Guess I thought I was at work where I just sign it if it’s in front of me.”

Day 3--Welches,OR to Kah-Nee-Ta, OR

Day 3—June 21, 2006—Welches,OR to Kah-Nee-Ta, OR—66 miles—4763’ climb

We started the day with a short ride to the Whistle Stop for a hearty breakfast. For the third year in a row, the staff there did a great job of getting us all fed and out the door in short order for a long day of climbing. I was disappointed though, because the woman who was there last year telling all as they left to “Remember to potty!” didn’t provide that service this year.

The day started out chilly (51F) and clear, but riders quickly climbed into the low clouds hanging on the mountain. Although most of the early morning route was in the clouds, the climbing warmed up riders pretty fast. By the time they reached our SAG van at the top of the climb, it was cold, the temperature having dropped into the mid 40s or lower.

Today was our first real taste of mountains, and they were spectacular. Mount Hood, now behind us, loomed large and snowy over riders’ shoulders. We were expecting over 4,500 feet of climbing and we got it and then some. The first real test came shortly after breakfast — not much time to wear off those pancake calories, but everyone seemed to be moving pretty well up the grade. The terrain was up continuously for the first 12 miles with pitches ranging from 3-7%. Even though it was chilly, riders enjoyed the ride and the spruce canopy, mossy rocks, bear grass, rhododendron, and mountain lupine as they pedaled their way to the summit.

Michelle ran the SAG at the top of the climb out of Silver 2 (one of the silver support vans) at mile 13.5. There was a restaurant nearby called the Huckleberry Inn where several had planned on having a slice of delicious huckleberry pie, but were disappointed when it was not serving pie this morning. (Unfortunately I had told them that this taste treat awaited them at the top of the mountain, and the two kids on the triple talked huckleberry pie all the way up the climb. Guess it was the carrot on the stick.) There were also public restrooms at the top, which is a rest area and ski slope. It was so cold that riders didn’t stay long. Most grabbed a banana and granola bar and donned extra clothing for the long descents before the climb to the desert.

The topography changes today were phenomenal. We were in mountainous pine forests for 42 miles, until we made a left turn toward the resort. After the turn, the terrain quickly changed to high desert scrub, and then after about 15 miles of rolling terrain, we descended into the box canyon to the resort. Riders were greeted with a beautiful, winding descent to the valley floor, a gambol along a clear gurgling stream, and then were smacked with a steep climb up to the motel.

But, the tough climb to the motel, was worth every pedal stroke. We stay at Kah-Nee-Ta, a resort named for the Indian woman Xnitla, or “Root Digger.” The resort, which also has a casino, is located on the 600,000-acre Warm Springs Reservation 119 miles east of Portland in the central Oregon high desert. It is a lovely place

All in all it was another successful day. All riders rolled in without incident, proud, self-satisfied looks on their faces . . . life is good! Tomorrow we climb back to the top of the mesa that we came off of on our way in. Tune in for another day in the saddle.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• Shivering cyclist: “I’ve finally figured out why I have that shimmy.”
• “Wow! Today we went from high mountains to high desert.”
• Q: "What do you call the stokers on a triple? Stoker 1 and Stoker 2?” A: “No, we’re Captain, Midshipman, and Rear Admiral.”

SHOW & TELL: Anja saw two small brown bears. Trevor saw a group of wild horses. Jon came around a bend and found the road filled with cattle. And Lois, Annie, and others saw the moon . . . prominently positioned in the window of a passing van.

[Note: When Annie, a barmaid from Great Britain, joined this ride she was a very inexperienced cyclist. Two years after this ride, she and Lois (part of "The Final Four") teamed up in Great Britain and rode together from GB to Istanbul, Turkey, to join an Experience Plus ride.] 

Day 4--Kah-Nee-Ta,OR to Prineville, OR

Day 4—June 22, 2006—Kah-Nee-Ta to Prineville, OR—60 miles—3969’ climb

Kah-Nee-Ta High Desert Resort was a great place to stay, but somewhat of a logistical challenge for the staff to get all of the vans in the right place and to get our supplies and support vehicles organized. It was quite a hike to our rooms and the trek involved elevators. But, no one was complaining, and the motel staff was as gracious and accommodating as they were last year, helping riders with their bags and gear, holding the door for us to enter with our luggage and bikes, hustling food out when hot trays emptied at dinner and breakfast, and even providing a special parking garage for the triple, which is as long as a limo. I think everyone enjoyed their stay . . . especially if they grabbed a post-ride bite in the resort or casino restaurant, shopped in the unique gift shop, got to the pool, won some wampum at the casino, or sat around the huge fireplace and used the wireless function on their computers.

Christine climbing out of the canyon

Because of a detour around a landslide, riders missed the infamous climb up to Kah Nee Ta yesterday . . . but they got plenty of exercise on the steep twisting detour road (the staff road) which brought them up to the Casino and the back of the resort. However, this morning after a good breakfast, riders loaded their luggage and started the day by zipping down the steep drive they’d missed climbing the day before. A mile or so afterwards, riders started a gentle climb for the next 8 miles before enjoying a beautiful downhill into the Warm Springs valley. At the top of this climb most riders took photos of themselves with Three Fingered Jack, Black Mesa, Mt. Jefferson, the Three Sisters, and the tip of Broken Top serving as background.

The group I was riding with posing hopefully before a Stud Service sign

After leaving the Warm Springs Reservation, we picked up SH-26 and followed the beautiful Deschutes River through a valley before leaving it on a long four-mile climb out of the valley. About 2 miles after summiting, the road leveled out and we turned off into the country where we began to see the results of irrigation. Farms were raising many different cash crops: mint, onions, etc. It was a nice break from the highway to ride these very little used roads before coming back to SH-26 in Madras. We could ride side by side and talk. I became acquainted with Leslie and she with me.

Our SAG stop today was in a small park in Madras opposite the Chamber of Commerce. As in years past, they very graciously offered up their immaculate bathrooms to riders. All of Madras was in mourning for their native son, Andy Tucker, who had recently been kidnapped and killed in Iraq. Flags flew at half mast and every business had signs of condolence to the Tucker family and memorials to Andy. In fact the fence near the SAG stop had become a memorial to Andy, people leaving cards and signs and flowers.

I rode free all day, so after fueling at the SAG, Michelle swapped ride duties with Christine, and Michelle and I started out together to cover the last 30 miles or so, most of this stretch on a long, desolate highway that contained endless rollers until the last 10 miles to Prineville, which were -- yeehaw!! -- downhill. It was very dry and scrubby desert along the way, so hard to believe that we were so hot and dry when in every direction were magnificent snow covered peaks .

Tomorrow we ride 117 miles to John Day. Talk to you again after the ride.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “That climb lasted longer than a presidential campaign.” 
• “With the heat, my afternoon pace plummeted to Sun City tricyclist level.” 
• “What? The miles we rode today are only half the miles we will ride tomorrow?”

SHOW & TELL: Many of us were awed by a large group of wild horses that thundered by on the right, then crossed the road in front of us and continued down the canyon on the left side of the road. Tracey and Annie exited a DQ to find that both had flat tires (strange forces at work here). Michelle saw a small prairie dog colony. There were some interesting road kills, too, including two roadkilled white-tailed deer.

Day 5--Prineville, OR to John Day, OR

Day 5—June 23, 2006—Prineville, OR to John Day, OR—117 miles—5103’ climb

Everyone woke this morning with a feeling of uncertainty about their ability to finish one of the toughest days we have on our schedule. The distance is over 117 miles and riders were faced with over 5,000 feet of climbing. The only thing easy today was the navigation . . . turn left out of the motel, ride 117 miles, and turn right into the motel. We loaded early this morning (5:30 a.m.) to give riders a head start and to beat the heat on this very long day. Even so, most didn't beat the heat. Red faces and arms abounded at dinner. Also, the last riders got in after 7 pm, so some had a very long day in the saddle.

But no one is complaining. All of today's route was beautifully scenic. After the first climb, riders traveled through some magnificent Ponderosa Pine forests. Ravens croaked overhead and magpies and quail flitted through the underbrush. We pedaled along Ochoco Creek, Match Creek, Branch Creek, Mountain Creek, Rattlesnake Creek (and a host of others that wound their way down the canyons) and, of course we pedaled, along the John Day River, famous for its fly fishing.

Riders pose with the giant rocking chair
 before the Juniper Guy's shop

The town of Mitchell at mile 45 was a welcome little spot in the road on SH-26 E just before the ascent to Keyes Summit. It is one of only three places — Mitchell, Daysville, and Mount Vernon, all tiny towns — on today’s route where riders could get food. Once more some of the riders took me to task. I had again promised pie, but those who came first scarfed up every last slice. The subsequent riders were out of luck. Right next door to the cafe was the Juniper Guy (juniperguy.com) who was making interesting chairs, bed frames, and tables from juniper. He had a giant rocking chair out front and I took several photos of riders with it.

After reaching Keyes Summit, a tough climb, riders enjoyed a beautiful 25-mile downhill with a tailwind . . . it just doesn't get any better than that. Along with the great conditions, we definitely experienced sensory overload as the landscape was beyond description. High hills, rushing rivers, canyons, gorges, colorful rock formations. We descended into Picture Gorge which was just breathtaking. At one bend in the road a rock formation loomed above, looking for all the world like an ancient Incan temple. After we exited the canyon, we rode through a beautiful valley dotted with western style ranches until we reached John Day, a small but colorful town, most notable for being the end of our ride day.

Proud rider at the top of Keyes Summit

This group should be proud of their accomplishments today. It was a long, hot (94F) day, and they all came through with flying colors. At Route Rap we learned that this was the longest day several of the riders had ever ridden. We also had two people who rode their first century today, and we had two birthdays, Keith’s and Joyce’s.

Congratulations to all!

Today’s elevation view looked like an opera singer’s breast plate. Tomorrow’s looks like a shark’s jaw with three serious summits over 5,000 feet.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “It’s pretty bad when the butterflies get to the top faster than I can.” 
• “I would have gotten here sooner but I had to obey the speed signs outside of town.” 
• “I’d draft off you but I don’t have a kickstand.” 
• Staff: “The sun will be lower on the horizon pretty soon.” Rider: “I hope so. It’s been high noon for the past four hours.”

SHOW & TELL: Tim and Kathryn detoured through Mitchell and found the Mitchell mascot, a black bear kept in a large pen. Seems as though I remember someone discovering this poor bear last year also. They Reported that in Mitchell there was also a grocery, The Wheeler Country Trading Post selling groceries, hardware, sporting goods, and they also found the Little Pine Cafe, which looked like a fine place for lunch. Scott and Mike saw a bobcat leap a fence in one graceful bound. Several riders saw deer, and, of course, all saw the ground squirrels as they zipped across the road, tails high.