Introduction

ACROSS AMERICA NORTH, 2006
Astoria, OR to Portsmouth, NH  50 DAYS/ 3650 MILES

Across America North is America by Bicycle’s northern route across the United States. This 50-day moderately paced tour averages 80+ miles per day and crosses through 10 states and just a bit of the Canadian province of Ontario. The 3650-mile route begins with a wheel dip in the Pacific Ocean in Astoria, Oregon and ends with a wheel dip in the Atlantic Ocean near Portsmouth, New Hampshire. In between, meet the challenge of the Cascades, the Rockies, and the Appalachian Mountains. Experience the vistas of the high deserts, the rolling high plains, and upper Midwestern farmlands. Across America North is 45 riding days that will treat you to stunning vistas, epic climbs, and return you to “reality” with a whole new appreciation of cycling.

[This blog is being created 10 years after the event described so that I may share it with family and friends . . . and read it in my old age. The photos on it a bit blurry as many of them were originally compressed for Mike Munk's website and then pulled from that website.

In 2004 I retired in May from Fire Protection Publications, a fire service publishing company on the campus of Oklahoma State University. The very next month I scrapped plans for cycling across Canada with the CCCTS, a group of retired Canadian cyclists, and began as staff for America by Bicycle, a bicycle touring company out of New Hampshire. How did this happen? Well, I had been told by my doctor that I needed hip replacement surgery and that there was no way I could cycle across Canada. (I did not get that surgery until July 2014, ten years later, BTW.) I was in a funk. Mike Munk read about my predicament in Wheel Issues, the Red Dirt Pedalers bike club newsletter I put together, and offered me a staff position with America by Bicycle, He successfully enticed me with the news that I could ride as little as I wanted if the hip acted up. He also wooed me with a note that read something like "Which would you prefer? Sleeping on the ground in a tent or sleeping in comfy a motel bed with a chocolate on your pillow?" 

Mike is a super photographer, mechanic, and ride leader and wanted to free himself of the nightly chore of keeping his ride website in which he showcased the riders and ride each day. My primary job was to keep this website, but I, like all the other support staff, drove the SAG van or luggage truck, set up SAG stops, and rode my bike either Float (free with and among the riders) or as Sweep behind the last rider. (This position might also be called border collie.)

The ride described here was my third year to staff America by Bicycle's Across America North ride, which starts in Astoria, OR, and finishes in Portsmouth, NH, 52 days and 3637 miles later. 

This year’s ride was a bit different for several reasons. First, because of my mother-in-law’s illness and subsequent death, I was unable to train properly for the ride and also needed to leave the ride in Fond du Lac, WI, a week short of its conclusion. Second, Mike & Barbara Munk, Karen Bauer, and Josh Stratton, my heretofore team, were staffing the Challenge or undergoing heart surgery this year, so with one exception, the staff on this ride was new to me and, more importantly, new to the route. Third, I developed a nasty viral cold that lasted nearly 10 days, and last, I was asked to keep the official ABB website, which is a pretty cut-and-dried, two or three paragraphs and two pix affair, not at all as much fun or as interesting to write (or read) as Mike Munk’s ride site. When comparing the two sites, one can see that I borrowed liberally from the text and some of the photos of the 2005 Across America North website, which in turn I borrowed liberally from the 2004 North website, both of which I had developed jointly with Mike.. 

Nonetheless, we had an interesting and diverse group of riders and the route, as always, was magnificently scenic and challenging. I was pleased to find an avid birder in the group, a college professor no less, and I also enjoyed all of the “kids” on the ride. We had a father and 13-year-old son duo and a mother riding a triple with her 13– and 15-year-olds. And, we also had a mix of nationalities, including two from Great Britain, one from Ireland, one from Scotland, one from Finland (years ago), two from Germany, and from Switzerland another delightful father with his 21-year old son. 

The mountains were not our biggest challenge this year. The HEAT was. But apart from heat-related problems, this was one of the safest rides I’ve staffed. Only one rider had to leave the ride because of a broken bone (collarbone). Ironically, the same rider left the ride on its very first day last year with his collarbone broken in six places. He has now vowed to complete the ride in 2007. Three’s a charm.]

Pre-ride organizing

Before each ride, the ride leaders spend three days driving the luggage truck and vans from New Hampshire to Astoria, Oregon. On arrival we sort the gear, assign duties, go out to lunch and sight see  a bit in Astoria. Our first day in Astoria was blustery as you can see from the pix below.

Tom and Christine sort tubes and tires for the mechanic's van

Jim sorts through the pumps and gear needed on the mechanic's van

Staff lunch on arrival in Astoria 

The Astoria Column

Christine, Tom, and Jim braving the wind at the Astoria Column

Tom, Michelle, me, Cristine blowing in the wind atop the hill on which stands the Astoria Column

Bridge over the mouth of the Columbia River

Mouth of the Columbia river where it empties into the Pacific Ocean

View to the west and the Columbia River and to the east from the Astoria Column

Astoria, OR—Opening Day!

Day 0—June 18, 2006—Astoria, OR—Opening Day!

Hello all of you family members, friends, and cross-country wannabes who will be following this exciting and challenging cross-country bicycle ride. My name is Susan Walker, and I will be posting brief summary accounts of each day’s adventure to this site. This will be my third summer staffing ABB’s Across America North ride, yet I am as eager and excited as I was on the first. Please bookmark this site and enjoy the ride with us!

“What happens,” you ask, “on Day 0 of a 50-day cross-country bicycle ride?” The short answer is “A lot!”

There are six of us staff members: Andy Hiroshima and Michelle Sahli, Co-ride Leaders; Jim Benson, Mechanic (Andy, too); and Tom Chappell, Christine Leininger, and me, Support Staff/SAG Drivers. On Day 0, we six staff coordinated with the hotel staff, helped riders assemble their shipped bikes, and conducted flat tire clinics. We registered 58 riders (the youngest 13 and the oldest 74 years old) from 16 states—including Hawaii—and from six countries: England, Wales, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and France.

Andy Hiroshima, Michelle Sali, chief ride leaders; Moi (Susan Walker) and roommate Christine Leininger, ride leaders; Jim Benson mechanic; Tom Chappell, ride leader

Andy and Jim assembling and checking out riders' bikes

Bicyclists arrived all day and began to get to know one another. Led by rider volunteers Bill Weidenfeller, Joyce Marino and Tim & Kathryn Tolford, those who had assembled their bicycles and had been checked off on helmet fit and bike inspection, tested their legs and bikes at noon by riding to the ocean at Fort Stevens Shipwreck Beach where they dipped their back wheels as tradition dictates. Riders also collected a bottle of Pacific Ocean water. On reaching the east coast, they will dip their front wheels into the Atlantic Ocean, and a designated rider will mix the Pacific water with the Atlantic water in a symbolic gesture.

Bill Weidenfeller, rider who lead a group to the Pacific's Shipwreck Beach  to dip wheels

Triple riders Lil and sons Chris, and  Ray dipping their wheel

Me, Christine, and Jim at the Wreck of the Peter Iredale after wheel dipping

In the evening, the staff conducted introduction and orientation sessions before they and the riders sat down together and shared a delicious banquet prepared by the hotel. After dinner, riders were given their Day 1 route sheets and Andy conducted Route Rap—a review of the route—an event that will take place each evening before the next day’s ride. Of course the first thing every rider turned to was the elevation view to see how much climbing was involved. Excitement and anxiety ran high. Every rider wondered how he or she would stack up against the abilities of the other riders and the demands of the challenging route ahead.

Tomorrow will tell. Join us again then and find out how anxiety turns to jubilation as we roll along the broad Columbia River on the first day of our journey east.

HEARD AT REGISTRATION TODAY: 

• “Can I exchange this large jersey for a medium? I have a large belly but a small body hiding behind it.” 
• “I’m a retired pilot and would like to see the world go by at 15 miles an hour rather than 500.” [Kent Hill on introducing himself and his reasons for joining the cross-country tour.]

Day 1--Astoria OR to St. Helens, OR

Day 1—June 19, 2006—Astoria OR to St. Helens, OR—69 miles—2650’ climb

SON OF A GUN! OUR RIDE’S BEGUN IN STATE NO. 1—BEAUTIFUL OREGON, HOME OF THE SALMON, MT ST. HELENS AND MT HOOD, WILD HORSES, AND ALL THINGS GOOD.

O, what a beautiful morning! Our first day of the 50 to follow dawned gorgeous: sunny, clear, temps in the mid 70s warming to the low 80s and a mild quartering wind that as the road twisted sometimes became a tailwind giving riders a boost over the hills on today’s route.

After breakfast, all 58 riders gathered behind the motel (which is nearly under the Astoria Bridge) for a group photo (see below), and then wheeled out of the motel parking lot and turned east to begin Day 1 of their cross-country adventure.

The directionally challenged had an easy first day on the road: Turn left out of the hotel parking lot and ride SH-30 all the way to St. Helens. (St. Helens is not the site of Mount St. Helens, which is northwest of St. Helens on the border with Washington.) Originally settled by New England loggers, the old town portion of St. Helens on the riverfront dates back nearly a century. Like the mountain, the town was named by Commander George Vancouver for British diplomat Alleyne Fitzherbert, whose title was Baron St. Helens.

View from Rt 30 to the river valley  below

SH-30 is a fairly busy road, its traffic at times included pungent smelling logging trucks and also large trucks of chipped wood for the paper mills, but the drivers of these rigs were very polite and generally gave us wide berth . . . even an occasional encouraging toot of the horn. SH-30 runs along the broad Columbia River, and in places we could look down on the beautiful river and to the green hills rising beyond it (see above) . . . and sometimes we could inhale the acrid odor of the paper mills counterbalanced by the piney odor of the lumber mills along it. Our first SAG stop was in Bradley Park high above the Columbia. Riders took photos of the scenic vista.

Flat-topped Mount St. Helens

As we neared our destination, Mount St. Helens popped into view, puffing smoke, her flat top capped with snow. It is hard to imagine the devastation that occurred when she blew her top in 1980. Her eruption marked the re-awakening of a relatively young (40,000-year-old) volcano that had been dormant since 1857. The northwest Indians told early explorers about the fiery Mount St. Helens. In fact, an Indian name for the mountain, Lou-wa-la-clough, means “smoking mountain.”

Everyone was in by 3, so had time to relax and get to know one another before enjoying a spaghetti and/or lasagna dinner at the Village Restaurant next door to the motel.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “I’m suing for false advertising. They didn’t show all these hills in the brochure.” 
• “Did you see that drive-thru cigarette kiosk near the SAG stop?” 
• Jim: “A miracle has happened. Everyone has signed in.”
  Rider: “Oh, I wasn’t supposed to sign all those?? Guess I thought I was at work where I just sign it if it’s in front of me.”

Day 3--Welches,OR to Kah-Nee-Ta, OR

Day 3—June 21, 2006—Welches,OR to Kah-Nee-Ta, OR—66 miles—4763’ climb

We started the day with a short ride to the Whistle Stop for a hearty breakfast. For the third year in a row, the staff there did a great job of getting us all fed and out the door in short order for a long day of climbing. I was disappointed though, because the woman who was there last year telling all as they left to “Remember to potty!” didn’t provide that service this year.

The day started out chilly (51F) and clear, but riders quickly climbed into the low clouds hanging on the mountain. Although most of the early morning route was in the clouds, the climbing warmed up riders pretty fast. By the time they reached our SAG van at the top of the climb, it was cold, the temperature having dropped into the mid 40s or lower.

Today was our first real taste of mountains, and they were spectacular. Mount Hood, now behind us, loomed large and snowy over riders’ shoulders. We were expecting over 4,500 feet of climbing and we got it and then some. The first real test came shortly after breakfast — not much time to wear off those pancake calories, but everyone seemed to be moving pretty well up the grade. The terrain was up continuously for the first 12 miles with pitches ranging from 3-7%. Even though it was chilly, riders enjoyed the ride and the spruce canopy, mossy rocks, bear grass, rhododendron, and mountain lupine as they pedaled their way to the summit.

Michelle ran the SAG at the top of the climb out of Silver 2 (one of the silver support vans) at mile 13.5. There was a restaurant nearby called the Huckleberry Inn where several had planned on having a slice of delicious huckleberry pie, but were disappointed when it was not serving pie this morning. (Unfortunately I had told them that this taste treat awaited them at the top of the mountain, and the two kids on the triple talked huckleberry pie all the way up the climb. Guess it was the carrot on the stick.) There were also public restrooms at the top, which is a rest area and ski slope. It was so cold that riders didn’t stay long. Most grabbed a banana and granola bar and donned extra clothing for the long descents before the climb to the desert.

The topography changes today were phenomenal. We were in mountainous pine forests for 42 miles, until we made a left turn toward the resort. After the turn, the terrain quickly changed to high desert scrub, and then after about 15 miles of rolling terrain, we descended into the box canyon to the resort. Riders were greeted with a beautiful, winding descent to the valley floor, a gambol along a clear gurgling stream, and then were smacked with a steep climb up to the motel.

But, the tough climb to the motel, was worth every pedal stroke. We stay at Kah-Nee-Ta, a resort named for the Indian woman Xnitla, or “Root Digger.” The resort, which also has a casino, is located on the 600,000-acre Warm Springs Reservation 119 miles east of Portland in the central Oregon high desert. It is a lovely place

All in all it was another successful day. All riders rolled in without incident, proud, self-satisfied looks on their faces . . . life is good! Tomorrow we climb back to the top of the mesa that we came off of on our way in. Tune in for another day in the saddle.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• Shivering cyclist: “I’ve finally figured out why I have that shimmy.”
• “Wow! Today we went from high mountains to high desert.”
• Q: "What do you call the stokers on a triple? Stoker 1 and Stoker 2?” A: “No, we’re Captain, Midshipman, and Rear Admiral.”

SHOW & TELL: Anja saw two small brown bears. Trevor saw a group of wild horses. Jon came around a bend and found the road filled with cattle. And Lois, Annie, and others saw the moon . . . prominently positioned in the window of a passing van.

[Note: When Annie, a barmaid from Great Britain, joined this ride she was a very inexperienced cyclist. Two years after this ride, she and Lois (part of "The Final Four") teamed up in Great Britain and rode together from GB to Istanbul, Turkey, to join an Experience Plus ride.] 

Day 4--Kah-Nee-Ta,OR to Prineville, OR

Day 4—June 22, 2006—Kah-Nee-Ta to Prineville, OR—60 miles—3969’ climb

Kah-Nee-Ta High Desert Resort was a great place to stay, but somewhat of a logistical challenge for the staff to get all of the vans in the right place and to get our supplies and support vehicles organized. It was quite a hike to our rooms and the trek involved elevators. But, no one was complaining, and the motel staff was as gracious and accommodating as they were last year, helping riders with their bags and gear, holding the door for us to enter with our luggage and bikes, hustling food out when hot trays emptied at dinner and breakfast, and even providing a special parking garage for the triple, which is as long as a limo. I think everyone enjoyed their stay . . . especially if they grabbed a post-ride bite in the resort or casino restaurant, shopped in the unique gift shop, got to the pool, won some wampum at the casino, or sat around the huge fireplace and used the wireless function on their computers.

Christine climbing out of the canyon

Because of a detour around a landslide, riders missed the infamous climb up to Kah Nee Ta yesterday . . . but they got plenty of exercise on the steep twisting detour road (the staff road) which brought them up to the Casino and the back of the resort. However, this morning after a good breakfast, riders loaded their luggage and started the day by zipping down the steep drive they’d missed climbing the day before. A mile or so afterwards, riders started a gentle climb for the next 8 miles before enjoying a beautiful downhill into the Warm Springs valley. At the top of this climb most riders took photos of themselves with Three Fingered Jack, Black Mesa, Mt. Jefferson, the Three Sisters, and the tip of Broken Top serving as background.

The group I was riding with posing hopefully before a Stud Service sign

After leaving the Warm Springs Reservation, we picked up SH-26 and followed the beautiful Deschutes River through a valley before leaving it on a long four-mile climb out of the valley. About 2 miles after summiting, the road leveled out and we turned off into the country where we began to see the results of irrigation. Farms were raising many different cash crops: mint, onions, etc. It was a nice break from the highway to ride these very little used roads before coming back to SH-26 in Madras. We could ride side by side and talk. I became acquainted with Leslie and she with me.

Our SAG stop today was in a small park in Madras opposite the Chamber of Commerce. As in years past, they very graciously offered up their immaculate bathrooms to riders. All of Madras was in mourning for their native son, Andy Tucker, who had recently been kidnapped and killed in Iraq. Flags flew at half mast and every business had signs of condolence to the Tucker family and memorials to Andy. In fact the fence near the SAG stop had become a memorial to Andy, people leaving cards and signs and flowers.

I rode free all day, so after fueling at the SAG, Michelle swapped ride duties with Christine, and Michelle and I started out together to cover the last 30 miles or so, most of this stretch on a long, desolate highway that contained endless rollers until the last 10 miles to Prineville, which were -- yeehaw!! -- downhill. It was very dry and scrubby desert along the way, so hard to believe that we were so hot and dry when in every direction were magnificent snow covered peaks .

Tomorrow we ride 117 miles to John Day. Talk to you again after the ride.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “That climb lasted longer than a presidential campaign.” 
• “With the heat, my afternoon pace plummeted to Sun City tricyclist level.” 
• “What? The miles we rode today are only half the miles we will ride tomorrow?”

SHOW & TELL: Many of us were awed by a large group of wild horses that thundered by on the right, then crossed the road in front of us and continued down the canyon on the left side of the road. Tracey and Annie exited a DQ to find that both had flat tires (strange forces at work here). Michelle saw a small prairie dog colony. There were some interesting road kills, too, including two roadkilled white-tailed deer.

Day 5--Prineville, OR to John Day, OR

Day 5—June 23, 2006—Prineville, OR to John Day, OR—117 miles—5103’ climb

Everyone woke this morning with a feeling of uncertainty about their ability to finish one of the toughest days we have on our schedule. The distance is over 117 miles and riders were faced with over 5,000 feet of climbing. The only thing easy today was the navigation . . . turn left out of the motel, ride 117 miles, and turn right into the motel. We loaded early this morning (5:30 a.m.) to give riders a head start and to beat the heat on this very long day. Even so, most didn't beat the heat. Red faces and arms abounded at dinner. Also, the last riders got in after 7 pm, so some had a very long day in the saddle.

But no one is complaining. All of today's route was beautifully scenic. After the first climb, riders traveled through some magnificent Ponderosa Pine forests. Ravens croaked overhead and magpies and quail flitted through the underbrush. We pedaled along Ochoco Creek, Match Creek, Branch Creek, Mountain Creek, Rattlesnake Creek (and a host of others that wound their way down the canyons) and, of course we pedaled, along the John Day River, famous for its fly fishing.

Riders pose with the giant rocking chair
 before the Juniper Guy's shop

The town of Mitchell at mile 45 was a welcome little spot in the road on SH-26 E just before the ascent to Keyes Summit. It is one of only three places — Mitchell, Daysville, and Mount Vernon, all tiny towns — on today’s route where riders could get food. Once more some of the riders took me to task. I had again promised pie, but those who came first scarfed up every last slice. The subsequent riders were out of luck. Right next door to the cafe was the Juniper Guy (juniperguy.com) who was making interesting chairs, bed frames, and tables from juniper. He had a giant rocking chair out front and I took several photos of riders with it.

After reaching Keyes Summit, a tough climb, riders enjoyed a beautiful 25-mile downhill with a tailwind . . . it just doesn't get any better than that. Along with the great conditions, we definitely experienced sensory overload as the landscape was beyond description. High hills, rushing rivers, canyons, gorges, colorful rock formations. We descended into Picture Gorge which was just breathtaking. At one bend in the road a rock formation loomed above, looking for all the world like an ancient Incan temple. After we exited the canyon, we rode through a beautiful valley dotted with western style ranches until we reached John Day, a small but colorful town, most notable for being the end of our ride day.

Proud rider at the top of Keyes Summit

This group should be proud of their accomplishments today. It was a long, hot (94F) day, and they all came through with flying colors. At Route Rap we learned that this was the longest day several of the riders had ever ridden. We also had two people who rode their first century today, and we had two birthdays, Keith’s and Joyce’s.

Congratulations to all!

Today’s elevation view looked like an opera singer’s breast plate. Tomorrow’s looks like a shark’s jaw with three serious summits over 5,000 feet.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “It’s pretty bad when the butterflies get to the top faster than I can.” 
• “I would have gotten here sooner but I had to obey the speed signs outside of town.” 
• “I’d draft off you but I don’t have a kickstand.” 
• Staff: “The sun will be lower on the horizon pretty soon.” Rider: “I hope so. It’s been high noon for the past four hours.”

SHOW & TELL: Tim and Kathryn detoured through Mitchell and found the Mitchell mascot, a black bear kept in a large pen. Seems as though I remember someone discovering this poor bear last year also. They Reported that in Mitchell there was also a grocery, The Wheeler Country Trading Post selling groceries, hardware, sporting goods, and they also found the Little Pine Cafe, which looked like a fine place for lunch. Scott and Mike saw a bobcat leap a fence in one graceful bound. Several riders saw deer, and, of course, all saw the ground squirrels as they zipped across the road, tails high.

Day 6--John Day, OR to Baker City, OR

Day 6—June 24, 2006—John Day, OR to Baker City, OR—81 miles—4781’ climb

Our days in Oregon while challenging are also some of the most beautiful of the ride I think. Today we spent much of the day on the Elkhorn Scenic Route. We rode through two national forests: the Malheur National Forest (malheur means evil hour [bad fortune] and was named by the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Peter Skene Ogden who lost a cache of furs there in 1825) and the Wallawa-Whitman National Forest. Riders also climbed three mountain passes.The first--Dixie Pass at 5277’--has a large covered wagon viewpoint about 3.5 miles from the top. Many riders stopped there to take photos or to have their photos taken (see photo) and many shed some extra clothes after the exertion of the climb. Next, riders climbed to Tifton Mountain Summit at 5124’ and finally climbed to Snall Summit followed by a lovely 6-mile descent. We also crossed the John Day River again and followed the beautiful Powder River down through a canyon and into Baker City.

A Criterium was taking place in Baker City and our hotel was full of cyclists. The racers were as awed by our undertaking as we were of theirs. Their racing bikes were beautiful to behold. Many of our cyclists went into town to watch the Crit (see photo—this shot last year by Mike Munk). If we were going to be here for any length of time tomorrow, we’d get to watch a road race up the canyon we descended coming into town. The descent was exciting as a touring cyclist with its steeply banked curves (made me feel at times as though I was in a velodrome) and with the canyon walls and the Powder River on the right, so I imagine it will be twice as exciting for the racing peloton.

Our first SAG stop was at the Austin House Restaurant at mile 28. Here many of the riders sampled delicious huckleberry cobbler and ice cream, had a drink, bought a postcard, etc. Christine bought some Huckleberry flavored coffee (I’m trying to get her to brew some in our motel coffeemaker). Our second SAG was set up shortly after the little RR museum on Phillips Lake in a beautiful grove of ponderosa pines with picnic tables. This is one of my favorite SAG sites as I can bird and botanize. The SAG table flowers were wild flag and fox grass. An osprey nest with two young this year topped a tall tree trunk at the lake’s edge (and has for the past two years also). The adults were coming and going feeding their young.

All told, it was another beautiful day in paradise. All riders got in safely by about 5 and enjoyed the pool, talking to the racing cyclists, and eating a fine dinner at the hotel.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• Jim: “You can outrun a bull on your bike, no bull!” 
• “This is a great SAG Stop. I think I want to sleep here tonight.” 
• “Yum! Chips & salsa — very good—can we have them every day?”

SHOW & TELL: Jim stopped to take a photo and realized that the bull whose picture he was taking was on his side of the fence . . . ooops! Tim and Kathryn stopped at a wildlife lookout and saw some whiter specks moving about the mountain face high above. They did not have binoculars but assume these were mountain goats. Bob & Dave were just riding along minding their own business when they were confronted by a badger that stopped crossing the road long enough to let them know it was boss. One rider was stopped just before SS#2 so that a steam engine from the RR Museum could cross the road.

Day 7--Baker City, OR to Ontario, OR

Day 7—June 25, 2006—Baker City, OR to Ontario, OR—83 miles—2011’ climb

Yeeehaw! Most of today’s route spooled out like an unwinding ribbon. Riders enjoyed miles and miles of unearned downhill along old Route 30 and I-84 and then on SH-201 along the Snake River. Yesterday racers had their criterium race; today they had a road race (The Elkhorn Bike Classic) the route for which overlapped our route a bit, but was scheduled for later so there was no problem “getting out of Dodge.”

Since it was the first day riders would ride parts of the Interstate, I gave them Mike Munk’s protocol for Interstate riding at dinner last night: 1) Ride as far right on the shoulder as possible, 2) Get behind the guardrail when you have a mechanical or need to stop, 3) Avoid running over belted tire debris; these pieces of tire contain little tube puncturing wires, 4) Avoid pacelines, 5) Ride in small groups so that one person can always turn to face the traffic coming from behind if you are stopped, and, 6) most importantly, Cross on-ramps and off-ramps using the shortest distance between two points and beware of fast moving exiting and entering traffic. In fact, if you see a car coming, wait until it has exited or continued on before crossing the exit road. Cars travel much faster than cyclists.

To my knowledge we had no flats on the Interstate, maybe a record. Flatting on these shoulders dotted with tire bits is common. Today’s ride marked a couple of milestones, too: 1) At mile 32, just before the first SAG Stop, riders had 500 miles behind them; and 2) at about mile 48, riders crossed into the mountain time zone and were reminded to turn their watches ahead 1 hour

Once again, the scenery was spectacular. Many high brown grassy hills folded one behind the other, long swooping roadways cut through the hills and cliffs; cattle ranches, cattle and cowboys; vegetable farmers growing onions, sugar beets, corn, potatoes, wheat, and mint. Derelict wooden buildings, a cement plant, even one place where two RR tunnels cut through the hillside. Picture perfect romantic west . . . the unsuspecting would never guess that this was Oregon, our next to last day in the state.

Makeshift shade shelter along the Snake

Since SS #2 was at a gravel boat put-in on the Snake River with nary a drop of shade in sight, Jim fixed up the van last night by tying a tarp to the roof racks and placing the two bike stands in the back. When it came time to set up the SS, we stretched the tarp to the bike stands and anchored the whole thing with water barrels. This gave riders and staff some shade and the taller riders didn’t complain about having to stoop to stand under it.  
[ I later learned that the owner of the ABB touring company was upset with me for showing a photo of the jerry-rigged shade protection. It did not reflect well on the company he said. At this reserve I can see what he meant. The pic shows a jerry-rigged shelter. I wasn’t thinking . . . of the ABB company at least. I was thinking of the comfort of the riders and staff. Later I compounded this error by buying a canopy and then asking riders to voluntarily chip in a dollar or two to help pay for it. Of course one of the riders complained to the tour owner that such things should have been covered in the tour fee. Susan not thinking again.  Susan 2016]

Franz dipping in the Snake

Shade or no shade, Franz decided it was time to take a dip in the Snake when he arrived at the second SS, so stripped down to his bike shorts and swam way out into the river. Barb and Steve longed to do the same, but didn’t want to ride in wet shorts, so they waded in to cool their feet. Sara, too, waded in and soaked her doo-rag and jersey. These were all wise things to do because the day turned into a scorcher — 103˚F by the time the last rider pulled into the motel in Ontario. A couple of riders had a bit of trouble with the heat today, so Don (a marathon runner) took some time to explain what to do and what not to do on hot days. We staff have our misters ready, also a cooler full of iced towels and will be vigilant tomorrow in “running the line” in the SAG vans to ensure that riders have water and support when they need it.

Dinner at a Sizzler this evening revived everyone, and a Walmart Supercenter nearby helped the staff prepare for the days to come. Our motel is nearly on the Snake, which is the border between Oregon and Idaho, so tomorrow riders will enter their second state of the ride. Tune in then and see how things go.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• "Yeeeeeeeehaw!" 
• “On your left!”

Day 8--Ontario, OR to Boise, ID

Day 8—June 26, 2006—Ontario, OR to Boise, ID—62 miles—1438’ climb

WOOHOO! WE’RE IN STATE NO. 2, BEAUTIFUL IDAHO THE STATE WHERE SPUDS GROW AND CATTLE TOO, AND THE SNAKE RIVER HISSES THROUGH CANYONS.

The first part of today’s route wends east on little trafficked farm-to-market roads bordered by small farms and occasional houses. The road rolled considerably and looked at times like a piece of ribbon candy. The first 15 miles contained 7 turns, so riders were kept alert checking their computers. Nonetheless a few riders missed a turn and got in some bonus miles. One pair called me on the van phone. “Help! We’re lost.” While working their way back to the route, they saw a line of red, white, & blue riders across the fields one road over. Just like goslings behind their mother, they happily lined up behind these riders.

Since it was a short day, we set up only one SAG Stop midway between Ontario and Boise. It was supposed to be in a large Shell station/CS. When I got there, however, I could find no place to park the van, so set up in the church parking lot across the street. This worked out very well as riders did not need to cross to the left side of the road. When I got to the SS, Deanna Livsey (rode the inaugural AAN in 2001) and her friend, Dana, were waiting with two big bags of cookies that Deanna had made and toted to the SS. The two had ridden their bikes out from Boise. They waited until fellow inaugural riders Sara and Christine (see photo below) arrived, and then gathered a group and rode back to Boise with them, showing them a slightly different route. Deanna had met us last year, too, having recently moved from the Chicago area to Boise. Thank you Deanna!

As riders neared Boise, the road became more urban, but continued to be quiet as the route veered off into a residential area and then eventually entered Hyde Park, an esoteric narrow spot on the road, and a favorite place for riders to stop for lunch before continuing to the hotel, about 2 miles away. Many riders had a sandwich or pizza at Lucky 13 right across from Richards, our usual lunch spot, which was closed.

Christine with veteran riders riders Sarah and Christine
at lunch in a trendy section of Boise

Andy conducted R-Rap at 4, and I talked about what to see and do in Boise. After our day in the merciless heat yesterday, I bought a canopy at Walmart last night. At Route-R, I asked for $1 or $2 canopy donations (strictly volunteer) and received enough to meet the cost of the $88 canopy. Thank you riders! I know that you’ll think your donation was one of the best investments you’ve ever made as we cross wide open, sun-saturated Idaho, Wyoming, and South Dakota. Also at R-Rap, we said our final good-byes to riders Tracey Bail, Scotty Bolf, and Alan Williams whose northwestern leg ended in Boise. We will miss them.

Tomorrow should be a fun day for both staff and riders. We staff get to welcome three new riders, Leslie Margolin’s friend Kathy Griest, Mike Warmbier’s brother, Fred, and Jon Gregg’s nephew, Jason; and riders get to explore Boise and enjoy a little R & R.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “This was a nice ride today. Thank you!” 
• “I liked the little farm-to-market roads.” 
• “I loved those rollers. They were spaced perfectly.” 
• “Watermelon! Ummmm Yumm!” 
• “Nice flowers.” 
• “I got in some bonus miles today. I hear that a couple members of the staff did some route research also.”

Day 9--REST DAY, Boise, ID

Day 9—June 27, 2006—REST DAY, Boise, ID

I think everyone enjoyed their stay in Boise: The Courtyard by Marriott is a very gracious hotel; Boise is a “bike friendly” town with cyclists everywhere, 30 miles of greenway bike trails just a block from the motel, and a great bike shop called “Georges” one block away. Also, only blocks from the motel, an REI store within biking distance and a masseuse for the aching muscles. There is also a choice of eating places nearby the motel. Some riders opted for a Basque restaurant where they had some ethnic food and a great experience.

What’s a Basque restaurant doing in Boise? Well, Boise — which BTW is named from the river on which it is located, the latter named by the French Rivière Boisé, meaning “woody river” — saw an influx of Basques from Spain in the 1930s, a migration that has had a big impact on Boise's culture. Interestingly, today Boise has the largest concentration of Basques per capita outside the Pyrenees Mountains. It also has a fine Basque Museum and Cultural Center.

Enuff for now. Look for a report again on tomorrow’s ride out of Boise. 

Day 10--Boise, ID to Mountain Home, ID

Day 10—June 28, 2006—Boise, ID to Mountain Home, ID—50 miles—1277’ climb

We’ve been on the road for nine days (664 miles) and have climbed a cumulative 24,539 feet in that time—that’s 4.6 miles. Jetliners cruise at 30,000 feet, less than one mile higher. Think about that the next time you see a jetliner at cruising altitude. Riders have already climbed nearly as high on their bikes, just took them a little longer.

All had a great day off and almost hated to take to the road again and leave Boise. In fact, mechanic Jim pedaled to Mountain Home and then turned around and returned to Boise . . . in the van, to pick up Ron’s rebuilt bike. This because when Ron was washing his Raleigh in Boise, he discovered that his titanium frame was cracked. Georges bike store is only one block from the motel, so Jim and Ron took the bike there where they stripped it of all its components and ordered a new frame. Raleigh overnighted (that’s only a real word in bike lingo) a new frame, and one of George’s mechanics rebuilt the bike. Today Ron rode Michelle’s Kestrel and claimed to love it.

Shaded rest stop off I-84

Today we left Boise along a lovely paved bike trail for about 7 miles. At times the bike trail paralleled the Boise River and a Native American wildlife area. After leaving the bike trail, we climbed out of town on Rte. 21, in the process crossing the New York Canal. The NY Canal was built in 1882 by a group of New York and East Coast investors who organized the Idaho Mining and Irrigation Company, a Boise canal company. Soon mining engineer Arthur D. Foote planned an enormous project that Boiseans called the New York Canal. Seventeen feet deep and 27 feet wide, it would run 75 miles and feed more than 5,000 miles of lateral ditches. Foote projected that nearly a half million acres of arid land could be brought under cultivation. It was much more of an undertaking than originally planned and was not opened for use until 1906.

At about the 12-mile mark, we got on I-84, and spent most of the rest of the route on it. Since it was a short day, we had one SS today, set up by Christine at an I-84 truck stop. She found a little shady area under a pine tree. Riders all parked their bikes along an adjacent wooden fence. Thank you Joyce and Bill and others who ate dinner last night at The Melting Pot, a fondue restaurant, and asked the server if they could buy a fondue skewer. When they explained the tour and our SAG stops and told the server that they wanted the fondue skewer to replace my hand carved pickle stick (a sharpened stick), the server gave it to them for free. Riders fished pickles from the jar with newfound facility.

Yesterday it was 105˚F in Mountain Home. Today we were blessed with cooling headwinds and cloud cover so even heat wienies like me managed a comfortable ride. It was a short, relatively easy day and all were in by 1 . . . despite numerous flats due to the wire strewn shoulder of I-85. The Mountain Home Best Western where we have stayed for the past several years had set up coolers of cold water, Fritos, chips, other salty snacks, a basket of granola bars, and another of apples for riders, many of whom chose to cool off in the waterfall-fed pool while waiting for their rooms to be made up.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

* “Where’d the bike trail begin? I missed it!” This from a rider who was carrying his bike to the trail from the adjacent road. (Several riders missed the beginning of the trail.)

* “What a beautiful pool!”
* “Sun bad; cloud cover good.”
* “Where’s the nearest DQ?”

Day 11--Mountain Home, ID to Twin Falls, ID

Day 11—June 29, 2006—Mountain Home, ID to Twin Falls, ID—97 miles—2450’ climb

When we left the hotel this morning after a good breakfast at AJ’s, the sky was gray and cloudy and it was raining lightly. No one minded the cloud cover, least of all me. In fact many of us were thankful. Not five miles out, the sprinkles quit sprinkling and all doffed and stowed their shower caps and rain jackets. (Riders use shower caps over their helmets in light rain and to cover their saddles when off the bike.)

While the sprinkles quit, the sprinklers did not. As far as the eye could see, field after field of sugar beets and potatoes were being irrigated, the large rolling sprinkler systems looking like dinosaur skeletons. Irrigated fields are green; unirrigated ones brown in this area of the country. In one vast field a lone field hand in a red shirt hand-hoed rows of plants. I hope he just wanted to get a head start before the heat of the day and that many others were going to join him. If not, his task was akin to emptying a pond with a thimble.

Jim set up the first SAG Stop today in the town of Glenn Ferry. Just as in years past, the gnats were gnasty. When I left the SS, my legs were dotted with gnats that had stuck to the sunscreen I was wearing. Shortly after SS#1, riders climbed up King Hill and then had a three-mile swooping downhill before eventually turning onto a little used frontage road (see photo above) which takes them along the top of the bluffs to the little town of Bliss, ID. Here many stopped at a convenience store for a cold drink or strolled across the street to a rock shop, the owner of which was a nonstop talker. At one point, after learning that I lived in OK, he asked me to look at him. He stared into my eyes for 30 uncomfortable seconds and then told me that yep, he could see Cherokee in my eyes. Not. I grew up in upstate NY. What he saw may have been my Dutch-Welch ancestry but certainly not Cherokee.

After turning onto the Rte. 30 Scenic Byway, riders rolled off the plateau and down to the river, stopping at an overlook which overlooks the green (irrigated) valley far below. They also stopped to read about the fossil beds in the area and then climbed back up to the plateau again and enjoyed watermelon and other tasty snacks at SS#2, which was set up this year in a Community Park.

Most of the last third of the ride today was on small farm-to-market roads lined with stockyards. Riders’ speed increased by 3 mph when passing these. They also faced one detour. Road crews were patching sections of road. Both bicycles and vans found that they could ride through the detour, however.

This was a near century day sandwiched between the trip’s two shortest days: 50 miles yesterday and 38 miles tomorrow. Tomorrow’s 38 miles will fly by as riders form teams to take part in the day’s scavenger hunt. Check in tomorrow and find out which team was the most creative.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

* “Why is there a detour here? Can I go straight?”

*  “This is Justin, my SAG set-up assistant. He’s 10.”

*  “Wow! What a view!”

*  “When are we going to get to that sharp “V” on the elevation view?” “Don’t worry, be happy. It’s the bridge over the Snake River.”

SHOW & TELL: Several saw antelope in the roadside sage today and many cottontails and jackrabbits, too. There were also several road-killed snakes and birds, one of which was a screech owl.

Day 12--Twin Falls, ID to Burley, ID

Day 12—June 30, 2006—Twin Falls, ID to Burley, ID—38 miles—1178’ climb

How to protect against sunburn . . .
if you don't care that you scare little kids

A lazy, lovely day . . . clear and sunny but with milder temps than we’ve been experiencing. Also cooling breezes that served as a tailwind to push us over the puny 38 miles of today’s ride to Burley, Idaho, a small farming community off I-84. (Burley’s only “claim to fame” is that three cows traced from the Canadian mad cow herd were found here.)

Many slept in this morning because with the short day we didn’t load until 8 am. Riders planned on stopping by Shoshone and Twin Falls on their way out of town, such stop requiring steep curving downhills . . . and their opposite (photo below). One of the riders talked to a ranger at the bottom and found that there is a bike trail that runs for a couple of miles up to and along the ridge to the spot where stuntman Evil Knievel attempted (but failed) to jump the gorge in 1974.

Last night groups formed teams and plotted strategy in anticipation of today’s scavenger hunt. At luggage load, I revealed the list of items to be found. Some were so eager to get a head start that they’d read last year’s web site to see if any of the required items were listed. The scavenger hunt is always enjoyable, and the inventiveness and ingenuity of the riders makes our post-dinner judging of the teams a riot of laughs. This year we had two big teams: Team Rails to Trails whose leader was Bill Weidenfeller, and Team High Rollers, lead by Barb & Steve Hauke and including Ken Iobst, Rob Dahlstrom, Annie O’Grady, and Lois Evans, all of whom also shared the presentation of objects. The presentations were very inventive, but Team High Rollers won by a slim 3-point margin and will now get to be first in all buffet lines for the next week.

Our route today followed the Snake River Canyon for about 9 miles. Then we broke away and followed I-84 on frontage roads. It was quite a lonely route except for the sound of interstate traffic and the pulsating sounds of the watering systems that were virtually everywhere. There were fields of sugar beets, newly planted beans, and white russet and red russet potatoes, as well as colorful swatches of yellow wild mustard and an occasional sunflower. Also along the roads flowed many irrigation ditches, which attracted birds and other wildlife. There wasn’t much climbing today either, unless riders opted to ride down to the Snake River and back up (and many of them did). Everyone got in early, ate lunch at one of the nearby restaurants, gathered their scavenger hunt items, and got a good rest in preparation for tomorrow’s 112 miles.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

* “Where’d the road go?” [from riders who missed the turn under the Interstate and found themselves at a “Pavement Ends” sign].

* “Gotta love a tailwind.”

* “This was a great day!”

SHOW & TELL: Yesterday Abe watched and took photos of parachutists base jumping from the bridge high above the Snake; one rider saw an emu; many of us saw the small yellow crop dusting planes up close and personal. I was following behind Jeff & Julie when both planes flew not 25 feet over our heads and landed at their refueling station which was just up the road from today’s SAG stop.