Day 12--Twin Falls, ID to Burley, ID

Day 12—June 30, 2006—Twin Falls, ID to Burley, ID—38 miles—1178’ climb

How to protect against sunburn . . .
if you don't care that you scare little kids

A lazy, lovely day . . . clear and sunny but with milder temps than we’ve been experiencing. Also cooling breezes that served as a tailwind to push us over the puny 38 miles of today’s ride to Burley, Idaho, a small farming community off I-84. (Burley’s only “claim to fame” is that three cows traced from the Canadian mad cow herd were found here.)

Many slept in this morning because with the short day we didn’t load until 8 am. Riders planned on stopping by Shoshone and Twin Falls on their way out of town, such stop requiring steep curving downhills . . . and their opposite (photo below). One of the riders talked to a ranger at the bottom and found that there is a bike trail that runs for a couple of miles up to and along the ridge to the spot where stuntman Evil Knievel attempted (but failed) to jump the gorge in 1974.

Last night groups formed teams and plotted strategy in anticipation of today’s scavenger hunt. At luggage load, I revealed the list of items to be found. Some were so eager to get a head start that they’d read last year’s web site to see if any of the required items were listed. The scavenger hunt is always enjoyable, and the inventiveness and ingenuity of the riders makes our post-dinner judging of the teams a riot of laughs. This year we had two big teams: Team Rails to Trails whose leader was Bill Weidenfeller, and Team High Rollers, lead by Barb & Steve Hauke and including Ken Iobst, Rob Dahlstrom, Annie O’Grady, and Lois Evans, all of whom also shared the presentation of objects. The presentations were very inventive, but Team High Rollers won by a slim 3-point margin and will now get to be first in all buffet lines for the next week.

Our route today followed the Snake River Canyon for about 9 miles. Then we broke away and followed I-84 on frontage roads. It was quite a lonely route except for the sound of interstate traffic and the pulsating sounds of the watering systems that were virtually everywhere. There were fields of sugar beets, newly planted beans, and white russet and red russet potatoes, as well as colorful swatches of yellow wild mustard and an occasional sunflower. Also along the roads flowed many irrigation ditches, which attracted birds and other wildlife. There wasn’t much climbing today either, unless riders opted to ride down to the Snake River and back up (and many of them did). Everyone got in early, ate lunch at one of the nearby restaurants, gathered their scavenger hunt items, and got a good rest in preparation for tomorrow’s 112 miles.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

* “Where’d the road go?” [from riders who missed the turn under the Interstate and found themselves at a “Pavement Ends” sign].

* “Gotta love a tailwind.”

* “This was a great day!”

SHOW & TELL: Yesterday Abe watched and took photos of parachutists base jumping from the bridge high above the Snake; one rider saw an emu; many of us saw the small yellow crop dusting planes up close and personal. I was following behind Jeff & Julie when both planes flew not 25 feet over our heads and landed at their refueling station which was just up the road from today’s SAG stop. 

Day 14--Blackfoot, ID to Idaho Falls, ID

Day 14—July 02, 2006—Blackfoot, ID to Idaho Falls, ID—34 miles—376’ climb (somewhere)

After a 7 am breakfast and 8 am load, riders left Blackfoot and headed for Idaho Falls, a bustling little city nestled among the Rocky Mountains and sitting astride the Snake River. In fact, the short route today followed the Snake for most of its length — the route's length, that is, not the Snake's. (The Snake is the main tributary of the Columbia River and is 1,670 miles long.) Idaho Falls, originally a fording point over the Snake River was first settled by Mormons, but it owes its existence to the River and the railroad. It was and still is a resting place for travelers on their way to other places such as Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, Targhee, Sun Valley, Craters of the Moon, the Sawtooths, and Jackson, our destination tomorrow.

Our short, 34-mile route today snaked along the Snake and took us through field after field of potatoes and sugar beets. Most of the fields have an irrigation ditch running alongside of them from which water is siphoned onto the crops. Crops are also watered with gigantic motor-driven irrigators that roll slowly across the fields and look, to me, like dinosaur skeletons. I took some photos of riders as they passed a horse ranch that has a practice bull in its corral. Talked with the rancher for a bit here and he told me that his brother had ridden a hand pedaled bike across country a couple of years ago. Said he remembers us from years past.

It was Ray’s 16^th birthday today and all at the Sag Stop sang him a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday” when he arrived. Then, brother Chris, who had been riding in the van with me, took mom’s place on the triple-turned-tandem and rode the rest of the way to Idaho Falls with his birthday brother. Later that evening at dinner, the group sang Happy Birthday to Ray again as he blew out the candles on his birthday cake, which he shared with all.

We’re at a lovely Red Lion Inn in Idaho Falls, directly on the river across from the falls and a Mormon Tabernacle (see photo above). Because it is such a short ride, our rooms are never ready when we get here so riders pack their swimsuits and lounge by the pool or fan out to various local restaurants, museums, and points of interest. I think the last riders got into their rooms about 2:30.

Tomorrow will also be our last day in Idaho. We will cross the state line into Wyoming on our ride up the mountain toward Teton Pass. It will be a tough day with our steepest climb of the trip . . . no late breakfast tomorrow. But the pride of accomplishing this climb, whether on foot the last steep miles or on bicycle, will be remembered by all.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “What a scenic ride!
• “Ahhh, leftover cookies from last night’s picnic. Any of that great lasagna?”
• “Gotta love these laid-back days!”

Day 13--Burley, ID to Blackfoot, ID

Day 13—July 01, 2006—Burley, ID to Blackfoot, ID—111 miles—1969’ climb

Blackfoot, our destination today, is the largest potato producing community in the world, providing a third of the nation's potatoes. On the way into town we saw numerous potato fields and potato barns — barns buried to their sod roofs that work as cold cellars. The town name came from a bad translation of “Siksika” which means "Black moccasin" a term probably derived from the discoloration of moccasins with ashes. It was used as both the name of a single tribe (the Blackfoot), and for the confederacy to which they belonged. They called themselves Ni-kso-ki-wa.

Because of the breezes and low humidity, the weather today was sunny and pleasant, even though the temps climbed to the low 90s.  It was windy today but the wind shifted all day as did the road, so riders had a variety of conditions. We began today’s route in vast, fertile fields of sugar beets and potatoes but after about 10 miles, the terrain changed to open range grazing land (though I don’t know how the cattle found anything to graze upon) through a very desolate part of Idaho. The road to the first SAG was rough chip-and-seal, and in places where we had a vista, it seemed to ribbon out endlessly across the sage-dotted terrain. Because it was open range, riders crossed eight cattle guards — the rails they put across the road to keep the cattle within a section of range (see photo above). Cattle crossed our route in several places today or grazed beside the road.

Rider about to cross one of the many cattle guards on today's route

After the first SAG stop, the road, which was now freshly tarred chip-and-seal, rolled to I-86. Though it meant several miles of gentle climbing, riders were very happy to see I-86 because its shoulder was smooth concrete. Riders rolled 8 miles on I-86, exiting at American Falls. Six miles after exiting, they came to SS#2, which Tom had set up at mile 60, American Falls Dam Park. Here they enjoyed chips and salsa before beginning the second half of the route.

The second half of the route was pretty flat and rolled again past vast potato farms and fields. Christine set up the last SS at mile 89 in the shade of a small apple tree. Riders stopped and enjoyed cooling watermelon. And then riders booked it the last miles to Blackfoot so that they could watch the World Cup and also learn what had transpired in the Tour de France.

As in years past, we eat picnic style outside and our dinner this evening was catered by Gene Parrish and his family. They do a fantastic job. BBQ chicken, veggie. and regular lasagna, scalloped potatoes, green beans, huge pots of coffee and cold drinks, and desserts to die for, including Dutch ovens of apple and cherry-chocolate cobbler, which riders can top with ice cream. The perfect meal after a long day (see photo above).

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

   * “I was irrigated . . . and it felt good!”

   * “Sshake rrattle, and rroll!”  

   * “Did you see the potato roadkill outside of Rockford? So mashed you couldn’t tell a red russet from a white russet.”

   * “There are an awful lot of spud farms on this route.”

SHOW & TELL: Julie & Jeff saw white pelicans either floating in the river or in flocks flying high into the thermals . . . so did several others. All remarked on the round mud nests of the cliff swallows under the I-86 underpass before SS#1. Chris found three adorable kittens on the roof of a shed behind SS#1.

Day 15--Idaho Falls, ID to Jackson, WY

Day 15—July 03, 2006—Idaho Falls, ID to Jackson, WY—88 miles—5989’ climb

YEEHEE! WE’RE IN STATE NO. 3, WIDE OPEN WYOMING, LAND OF MOUNTAINS AND PASSES, COWBOYS AND GRASSES; ROCKS PAINTED BY OUR MAKER AND HELL’S HALF ACRE!

All were up early today, and after fueling big for the strenuous day ahead, riders loaded their luggage in a split second and hit the road, anxious to get some early miles in. They had a pretty stiff headwind for the first 45 miles until they turned left and started the climb to Pine Creek Pass. The day was warm, so the drop box was full to overflowing.

Ray and Mother Lil at Pine Creek Pass Summit

Michelle and Chris Herrly—who’s been having a bit of trouble with his young 13-year-old knees—set up the first sag stop at a little park at an overlook about 25 miles out. It’s a beautiful spot with a wonderful view down to the Snake and the valley below. When I got to this SS in the van (I have a heavy viral cold, laryngitis, and cough so will be driving the SAG van for a couple of days), Chris jumped in with me and we set out to get to the SS#2 before Chris’s mother, Lil, and his brother, Ray—who were sporting climbers’ red polka-dot jerseys and blasting along at a near 20 mph average despite all the climbing. We did get to the Pine Creek Pass Summit before they did, but not by too much (See photo right.)

After SS #2, many riders enjoyed the great descent into Victor where they had a sandwich and drink at a small sidewalk cafe before riding the final 23 miles to Jackson . . . trouble is, their climb to Pine Creek Pass was just a warm-up for their climb over Teton Pass at 8431 feet. These last 23 miles contained 6.6 miles of climb to Teton Pass, some of it 10%, and then a screaming 5-mile descent at 10%. At Route Rap, we learned that one rider took the descent at 58+ mph. Whooooosh!

The scenery today was breathtaking. Fir trees and snow spotted mountains; rivers and valleys, wildflowers everywhere—Indian paintbrush, wild roses, some pretty big-petaled yellow flowers, lupine, etc. . Those riders who came up the mountain late in the day were cooled by a brief rain and then boosted along with a great tailwind. The last rider reached the motel after 6 pm.

Dinner this evening was a pizza party at Pizza Hut. Riders outdid themselves fueling up for tomorrow’s climb over Togwotee Pass and the Continental Divide at 9,658 feet.

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

• “I haven’t had this much fun since my kidney stone.”
• Rider: “Andy, why don’t you put on those latex pants and get on your bike?” Andy: “Latex? Are those the shorts that look painted on?"
• “Gee, when the riders come through next year there will be a cherry grove right here and a peanut farm.” 
• “We’ve passed the 1000-mile mark. My computer says that we’ve come 1001 miles since Astoria.” 
• “I ran over a stick and it took 10 seconds before the rear wheel ran over it.” 
• “Today I learned that horseflies can fly at 5 mph.”

SHOW & TELL: Kirk reported being entertained by the clear musical voice of Bell’s vireos on his climb to Pine Creek Pass, Barry saw a soaring golden eagle, Chris saw a moose in the river, and someone reported a bear but I cannot remember who.

Day 16--Jackson, WY to Dubois, WY

Day 16—July 04, 2006—Jackson, WY to Dubois, WY—88 miles—3450’ climb

What a fantastic day. Though I’ve staffed/ridden this route twice before, this day never ceases to amaze. The first part of today's route took us out of Jackson and along the valley known as Jackson Hole. As soon as we rounded a curve in the road outside of Jackson, the magnificent, snow splashed Grand Tetons knocked our socks off and dominated the northern skyline. The Grand Tetons are the youngest mountains in the entire Rocky Mountain system, their jagged peaks (12 over 12,000 feet) being only 2 or 3 million years old. When French trappers first observed the three most prominent peaks — South Teton, Grand Teton, and Mount Teewinot — they dubbed these mountains “Les trois tetons,” meaning "the three breasts." Later when they discovered that these were surrounded by numerous smaller peaks, they renamed the range “Les grands tetons.” Definitely mother earth at her finest.

Our ride today took us up over Togwotee Pass and the Continental Divide at 9,658 feet. Riders climbed for 17 miles, much of the time at 6%. It was not as steep as yesterday but riders were noodle-legged after yesterday's strenuous day, so felt the miles. At the summit, however, they were rewarded with cooling breezes (they’d had a tailwind climbing up), a magnificent view, the Continental Divide sign (see photo right), and about 25 miles of mostly downhill, ending in the small western town of Dubois (pronounced “du-boys,” not “du-bwaa”). In years past this was a yippppeeee! descent, but this year 8 miles of the road was torn out so riders got in some mountain biking.

We are in the Stagecoach Motel, right on the Wind River. Today the Stagecoach shut down at 2 so that its owners could participate in the town’s Fourth of July parade (riders participated, too; and one of the support vans got hung up in the midst of the parade so took the opportunity to smile and wave at the locals) The sidewalks of Dubois are wood planks (two with America by Bicycle branded into them), the architecture western, and the natives cowboys and cowgals.

Across from the motel is a store called Horse Creek Station, its player piano tinkling out tunes until dark, and farther down main street is a drugstore where one can still sit on stools and get a fountain drink. This evening we were fed a lasagna dinner in the back room of a western eatery called the Rustic Pines. We had to eat and run before the square dancing began at 7. We were all invited to come dance. Some riders took up the invitation, others did laundry in the little laundry/picnic pavilion behind the motel, quaffed a cold one in the saloon, played horseshoes, swam in the pool, shopped in the quaint stores along the main street, and watched the fireworks display in the evening.

Congratulations to the winners of the Fourth of July bike decorating contest: 3^rd Place, Sarah Grant whose bike was decorated with red, silver, and blue streamers, a special flag, and wind wheels. Sarah also wore tinsel streamers under her helmet as hair. 2^nd Place to Tim & Kathryn Tolford, who managed to put stars and silhouettes of Lincoln and Washington at their hubs. Tim also wore a huge red/white and blue Uncle Sam Hat. 1^st  Place went to Raymond Herrly and mom Lillian Pfluke whose top bar was entwined with blue tinsel wreathing and whose spokes were red/white/blue. Great work, too, to all the other riders who decorated their bikes so artfully.

The riders and staff all send a huge THANK YOU to Tracey Bail who sent dozens of huge chocolate cookies for the SAG Stops. We miss you Tracey!

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

*   “This last climb was much easier than yesterday’s!” 

*  “This could be the setting for the ‘Sound of Music.”

*   “This is the most beautiful day ever!” 

*  “Boy, after yesterday, my legs felt that!”

SHOW & TELL: Franz saw an elk; a bison/buffalo crossed the highway right in front of a group of riders; a large group of riders from the Triangle X dude ranch crossed the road in front of riders; many noticed the flowers along the climb and reached the summit to ask “What was that [fill in the blank] flower?” 

Day 17--Dubois, WY to Riverton, WY

Day 17—July 05, 2006—Dubois, WY to Riverton, WY—79 miles—2200’ climb but dropped 1900 feet

For all those who are following our progress and thinking about riding with us someday, eat your heart out . . . you’re missing a great ride now!  Just when we think we’ve had the perfect day, along comes a day like this.  Everyone really enjoyed today: the terrain dropped overall from Dubois to Riverton, we had light tailwinds, and though it was chilly when we left Dubois, it heated up to the low 90s, which is still moderate (for this area) . . . not to mention the scenery.  The departure out of Dubois was spectacular, the changing colors of the hillsides caught everyone’s attention, and the early morning shadows on the weathered landscape caused riders to stop frequently for beautiful photo memories of the trip.

Parade "float" passing the drug store across from our motel

Our route today was Hwy 26 all the way to the motel in Riverton. Ninety percent of the time we had a nice shoulder and traffic was light and polite.  Most of the day we followed the romantic Wind River through the beautiful Wind River Valley. The river provided greenery for pastureland, which, with large ranches, was the scenery of the day for the early portion.  Many of the ranches in Wyoming have gates made of huge peeled logs and intricately cut and welded scenes across them, and names such as Big Sky Ranch, Wind River Ranch, Red Rock Ranch, and so forth. 

As we got closer to Riverton, we found ourselves in high desert with sage and sparse population.  The only town, if you could call it that, between Dubois and Riverton was Kinnear and it had a population of 44.  You've got to love solitude if you live out here.  I really love riding through this area, but I don’t think it would be too much fun to have a steady diet of this type of riding . . . only one paved road through here.

We met a couple at the second SS who were riding self supported to Colorado. They, too had started in Astoria. Then a little later we passed small groups of Adventure Cyclists who were traveling self-supported from Virginia to Portland. Today, at least, we had the terrain (mostly downhill) and the weather (tailwind) with us. I didn't envy them their push uphill and into the wind on such a hot day.

Everyone was in good spirits at the end of the day. The riding and the weather has just been too good. Riders needed this easy day before tomorrow’s tough 120 miles. Tonight they need to rest, because no matter how good the winds might be, 120 miles will make them ready for their day off in Casper. But that’s tomorrow.

[ Despite the rose-colored account above, the last several days were a trial for me--and for my roommate, who finally bailed in Dubois because she couldn 't sleep for my coughing. I was riding Float this day despite a super viral cold and hoarse cough. Even breathing at rest was a problem. Andy thought I was slacking so continued assigning me sag set up.Young Chris had been sagging in the van with me and helping with sag setup so that I could steer as clear of the food and riders as possible. It was either this day or the next when I volunteered to drive the luggage truck rather than serve food to the riders at the sag stops. I felt as though I was exposing them to my virulent germs. Andy reluctantly agreed.]

OVERHEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

•  “Could you please make the rest of our route like this?” 
• “Wide open Wyoming.” 
• “Yeehaw!” 
•  "Finally I can breathe again. The oxygen molecules are closer together at this altitude.”

SHOW & TELL: We saw prairie dog colonies along the roadside and several groups of antelope, plus a field of emu across from SS#2. I saw a burrowing owl at one of the prairie dog colonies. We all marveled at the striped and painted rocks in the first half of the day.

Day 19--REST DAY, Casper, WY

Day 19—July 07, 2006—REST DAY, Casper, WY

We’ve come a total of 1,319 miles in the past 18 days (an average of 73 miles per day) and on this 9-day leg, we climbed 20,803 cumulative feet, just a hair short of 4 miles. Woohoo! Add that to the 4 miles already climbed and we’ve climbed 2 miles above the normal cruising altitude of a jet. Look up. Marvel.

All were glad to get to Casper for this rest day. Tomorrow most will start the ride with clean and well-tuned bicycles as the motel made available a hose and a big box of cleaning rags. On their day off, riders took in a Casper Rockies Pioneer League baseball game at the nearby stadium, browsed about downtown, enjoyed the nearby DQ, rode the bike trail along the Platte River (the hotel sits on the river), went to some of the interesting museums in the area or went to the planetarium. 

The Support Staff cleaned and gassed the support vehicles, bought SAG food, redistributed the food and material in the vehicles, welcomed new riders Dave Odell and Lisa Meister, both of whom are ABB returnees, and provided them with rider orientation, bike assembly, and helmet fit basics. At the end of the day, the staff enjoyed dinner together at Red Lobster where they analyzed the ride to date.

SAG stop bananas

Sorting tubes and gear for the mechanic's van

Tomorrow we’ll be on the road to Lusk, WY. Come back then and see how the day goes.